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Our "northern grapes". Part 1
It is not for nothing that they call him northern grapes, because in its medicinal properties and usefulness, it is in no way inferior to grapes, except in taste.
Gooseberry was known in Russia as early as the eleventh century! In the grand princely gardens in the twelfth and fourteenth centuries, it was grown in Moscow in large quantities. This berry was so popular that special plantations were established, on the site of which Bersenevskaya embankment and Bersenevsky lane are now located, in the names of which the old name of gooseberry berries "bersen" has been preserved.
And only in the sixteenth century, gooseberries began to be cultivated, first in Europe, and then, two centuries later, in North America. So that gooseberry is a truly Russian berry.
The advantages of the gooseberry are its unpretentiousness, endurance, early maturity, productivity, durability and usefulness, in addition, it is simply a delicious berry. It grows well in almost all areas, including the Northwest.
Unlike black currants, some gooseberry varieties are less winter-hardy, and the growth of the current year, that is, the young ends of the branches, can freeze to the level of snow at temperatures below -33 ° C, although the gooseberry crown usually withstands frosts down to -40 ° C. Winter thaws with subsequent frosts without snow are also unfavorable. The roots can freeze under such conditions even at temperatures below -3 ...- 5 ° C. Usually, the root system is able to withstand up to -2 ° C. Gooseberry flower buds, like black currant, endure severe frosts down to -35 ° C without damage, buds - only -6 ° C, flowers -3 ° C, and young ovaries - only -2 ° C. So with severe spring frosts, the entire crop can be lost.
Sometimes gooseberries are mulched in the fall to protect their root system from death in frosty, snowless winters, as well as against pests hibernating under bushes. But in the spring, it is imperative to remove the mulch from the bush, firstly, so that additional roots do not form in the mulch layer, which will still die next winter, and the plants will waste their energy on them, and secondly, so that the pests that hibernated under the bush die.
Gooseberries do not like stagnant waters, excessive waterlogging, strongly acidic soils. Prefers to grow in the sun, but tolerates a little shade. He does not like the neighborhood of black currants, but he quite reconciles, like raspberries, with apple trees, but he can be planted no closer than 1.5-2 m from these trees. Gooseberries are also friendly to the neighborhood of red currants. Since its sucking roots lie at a fairly large depth (about 40 cm), gooseberries do not need constant watering in dry weather, unlike black currants. However, with a lack of moisture, the gooseberry sheds its leaves prematurely, and its berries become smaller.
It differs from red and black currants, big lovers of phosphorus, the need for increased doses of potassium, which should be taken into account both when planting and when feeding. It is usually recommended to apply 20 g of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium under each bush once a season immediately after fruiting.
When feeding with potassium, it is useful to know that potassium salt of potassium contains 40%, and 100 g of fertilizer should be applied (half a glass);
potassium sulfate contains 50% potassium, and it is enough to add 80 g (less than half a glass);
potassium carbonate contains about 45% of pure potassium, it will take about 90 g of this fertilizer;
potassium nitrate contains about 14% nitrogen and 38% potassium, half a glass of fertilizer is enough;
ash contains only about 10% potassium, so you will need to add about 400 g of ash (4 glasses).
You should be aware that gooseberries do not tolerate chlorine and sulfur. It will shed its leaves prematurely if fed with potassium chloride, and immediately shed its leaves if treated with sulfur against pests or diseases.
Gooseberries are planted only in autumn, best of all in September. Before planting, the roots must be immersed in water for 2-3 hours so that they are saturated with moisture. If possible, add Kornevin to the water, which promotes root formation.
A hole is dug with dimensions of 50x50 cm, a depth of at least 40 cm. It is filled up to half the height with a mixture of soil dug out of the hole and well-rotted compost, which will require at least 8-10 kg per hole. Add half a glass of double granular superphosphate and two glasses of ash to it. Other fertilizers should not be applied in the fall, since autumn rains and winter thaws will wash them off into the lower layers of the soil. When planting, the roots are carefully straightened on a small mound, which is made in the center of the pit.
Gooseberries can be planted vertically, but it is better to plant them obliquely so that zero shoots come out of the ground faster. It is capable of giving additional roots, therefore, when planting, the root collar is deepened by 3-5 cm.Then the hole is completely covered with soil that was dug out of the hole and watered well. When the earth settles, it is poured additionally.
I am critical of the recommendation to trample the soil around the seedling after planting. There is no better way to fill the voids in the root zone with soil than watering, and trampling only leads to poor air flow to the roots, and this is undesirable in the initial period of plant survival, so we will do without trampling. After watering, which is done in several stages, it is necessary to mulch the soil surface under the bush with any dry soil with a layer of about 7-8 cm.
After planting or before it, but the bush must be shortened by cutting off the ends of the branches, no matter how sorry they are. No more than 3-4 buds should be left on each branch above the ground, and about the same should be in the soil. Such a strong pruning during planting promotes the formation of lateral shoots at the base of the bush and a good, and most importantly, fast and correct formation of the plant. In the future, much will depend on the timely and correct pruning of the bushes.
Gooseberry fruit buds live for a long time, about 8 years, but they will bear fruit only if there is a good growth (it is considered bad if it reaches only 7-8 cm at the end of summer). Watch this carefully. The growth is clearly visible, the bark at the grown ends of the branches is lighter. The smaller the new growth, the weaker the shoot, the more it is necessary to prune this branch, dropping down to the first strong lateral branch with good growth. The apical bud withdraws all nutrients and, if the branch is weak (it has a thin end), then no fruit is formed, and the yield is reduced. Therefore, it is imperative to shorten weak shoots.
The bush only branches when shortening zero shoots, that is, those that grow from the ground. Each new zero shoot must be shortened by a quarter of its length. Make sure that the cut is one centimeter above the strong bud on the outside of the branch, otherwise the shoot that comes from the bud below the cut will grow into the crown and will have to be removed. Zero shoots are shortened next spring. Pruning is done in March, before the sap begins to flow. Or it can be done in late autumn, when the plant has retired. But it is impossible to do a shortening pruning in the middle of summer or in early autumn, since it will cause a new growth, and it will not have time to woody to frost and dry out. So you just ruin the escape.
If there are no fruits on the branch, then it should be removed before the first strong branching (usually to the branch from which this sterile shoot started). If the branch is outdated and ceases to bear fruit, then it must be cut to the level of the soil, without leaving the hemp.
For the first 2-3 years, the gooseberry usually develops a root system, and the crown hardly grows. Then the rapid growth of the aerial part begins, and a lot of growth appears. The bush is not able to feed all the shoots, so it will needlessly thicken the bush and dry out. It is better to remove it immediately, especially the one that appears in the center of the bush. All extra shoots are cut out at the level of the soil, without leaving hemp, otherwise pests and pathogens will quickly settle in the left hemp. In addition, branches on the ground should be cut.
While you are forming a bush, you need to leave 3-4 young zero shoots annually, then gradually over 5 years the plant will form 20-25 strong branches of different ages. From this moment, abundant fruiting begins. In a properly formed bush in the prime of its strength, there should always be 20-25 fruiting branches. Gooseberry bushes should be planted at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. Old, broken, diseased and weak branches should be removed annually. Usually, the branch grows old by 8-9 years, and fruiting stops on it. In the future, shorten each shoot emerging from the ground by a quarter of its length, remove the growth in the center of the bush, cut out the excess branches, especially those growing inside the bush, thin out the bush.
Annual growths in fruiting branches are not shortened, because this reduces the yield. They are shortened in early spring only if they have turned black or dried out during the winter. The ends turn black if they are affected by powdery mildew. The ends of the branches dry out if the young growth did not have time to woody before the frost. To prevent this from happening, pluck out the apical bud (the topmost bud at the end of the branch) at the very beginning of July to stop the outflow of nutrients to the top.
Old shrubs can be rejuvenated by strong pruning. In late autumn, cut a third of the branches in the bush to ground level. Add 2-3 buckets of humus. This will cause zero shoots to grow from the soil. The next fall, shorten the zero shoots that have grown over the summer by one quarter of their length, and remove another third from the old branches. Then, next fall, remove the rest of the old shrub.
You should not cut the entire bush at the root at once in order to rejuvenate it. However, you need to know that no amount of rejuvenation will help a plant that is too old, which is more than 30 years old. If you cut out aging branches in a timely manner (they usually age by 10 years), then such drastic measures as rejuvenating the bush will not be required. An indicator of branch aging is the termination of its fruiting.
Remember that gooseberries cannot tolerate thickening and shading. He begins to wither, get sick and may die. If you leave the bush to its own devices, you will lose it.
Read the second part of the article: Growing gooseberries in standard form. Gooseberry pests and diseases →
Despite the fact that in recent years many new varieties of gooseberries have appeared, Krasnoslaviansky is still considered by many to be one of the sweetest and best dessert varieties.
The culture is characterized by an average ripening period: in late May - early June it begins to bloom, and in late July - early August bears fruit. In one place it can grow and bear fruit up to 14 years.
History of origin and distribution
The Krasnoslavyansky gooseberry is the result of the work of Russian breeders. It was created at the Leningrad fruit and vegetable experimental station, after which it was tested for 10 years. In 1992 Krasnoslavyansky took a place in the State Register of Breeding Achievements.
To obtain a new culture, the popular varieties Avenarius were crossed, from which Krasnoslavyansky inherited exceptional taste and high winter hardiness, as well as Oregon, known to gardeners for its unpretentiousness.
Perhaps it is difficult to imagine a dacha without berry bushes. There are traditional gooseberries with currants, and new settlers of our gardens - blueberries, sunberries, and other useful and beautiful berries. Regardless of your region and climate, the size of your plot and experience in gardening, you can hardly refuse planting berry bushes - after all, this is a harvest of rich in vitamins, tasty and aromatic berries, and an important element of garden design. Yes Yes exactly!
But of course, in order for plants to reach their full potential, they need to create conditions. Do you know which types and varieties of berry bushes are best suited for your garden? What place to choose for them, when is it better to plant, and what requirements should be followed? How to care for berry bushes so that they bear fruit and decorate your garden for as long as possible? Here you will find answers to many questions about these wonderful plants.
We hope that you will certainly tell us about the berries that you grow in your garden. Which of the shrubs are you especially pleased with? What did you have to work hard to get an excellent harvest? What dangers lie in wait for your pets, and how do you cope with them?
Let's put together a real encyclopedia of experience and knowledge about growing berry bushes and caring for them!
Read also about planting, growing and caring for bushes and trees. And also about their diseases, pests and protection from various misfortunes.
Yoshta - how I bought advertising
In gardening magazines, articles about yoshta often came across.
I bought one bush in the spring, it took root well. The next year I decided to propagate it: in the winter I cut off a couple of branches, divided them into cuttings 20-25 cm long and put them in a bowl with earth diluted to thick sour cream. The plants gave roots, and in the spring I already planted them in a permanent place along the garden path. You can plant yoshta in spring or early autumn (according to some sources, in late August - early September).
I feed my yoshta with the same fertilizers as gooseberries and currants. Bushes practically do not require pruning (I only remove temperature changes. I prepare the soil for planting in the same way as for currants, only taking into account the high need for potassium yoshta. For a decorative hedge, I plant plants at a distance of 35-45 cm from each other, single it is desirable to give the bushes a shape. After two years the bushes grew and began to bear fruit. Having tasted the berries, which tasted a little sour, I decided to prepare them - and not in vain. Fresh berries are difficult to evaluate, they are, as they say, an amateur, but homemade wine and the compotes are simply gorgeous in taste.
Yoshta turned out to be both a beautiful and useful shrub. To get stable yields, it is necessary to plant black currant and gooseberry bush near it. The berries are collected in small clusters of 3-7 pcs. the size of a cherry, an average yield of 7-10 kg per bush. The most pleasant feature of the plant is its resistance to diseases (anthracnose, powdery mildew) and pests, as well as frost. Life expectancy is about 20-30 years.
The content of vitamin C in this berry is lower than in currants, but 2-4 times higher than in gooseberries (on average 900-1000 mg per 100 g of berries). In addition, yoshta is high in vitamin P and anthocyanins. The fruits have high medicinal properties. They are used in the treatment of gastrointestinal diseases. It has been proven that yoshta berries improve blood circulation, promote the elimination of radioactive substances and heavy metals from the body.
Ripe fruits can be frozen, made juices, compotes, jam, jelly from them. I would like to give a recipe for vitamin jam. Maybe those who are disappointed in yoshta will love this shrub after trying it! For 1 kg of berries -1 kg of sugar and 1 orange. Grind berries and orange (with peel) in a blender or meat grinder, add sugar, cook after boiling for 5 minutes. Let the jam cool and after boiling, cook for 5 minutes, repeat again and pour into jars.
© Author: Tatiana Nikolaevna, Orel
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Yoshta is rarely seen in an amateur garden. And I'm happy with the culture! This gooseberry / blackcurrant hybrid includes all the beneficial properties of its parents. At the same time, the plant is resistant to diseases and has a high yield. I plant yoshta in the first half of September.
I prepare a landing pit 50 × 50 cm in advance.
I bring in half a bucket of humus or compost, 500 g of wood ash, 100 g of superphosphate and a little soil. With this mixture I fill the hole by a third of the volume, and on top - the fertile layer (more than half of the volume). After a couple of weeks, when the earth settles, I plant a seedling in the center, spread the roots and cover it with soil. I pour a bucket of water under the bush, and later I mulch the trunk circle with peat or humus.
In March, to form a plant, I shorten the tops of the shoots, leaving 3-4 buds. Further care - watering, loosening, weeding, protection from pests and diseases.
The first year or two I do not "feed" the bush. Later, the annual rate of mineral fertilizers for each plant is 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate (embedded in the soil). In the fall, I pour 0.5 liters of wood ash under the bush.
I bought yoshta, planted it, cherished it. She has been sitting with me for six years now and not gu-gu. No flowers, no fruits.
Transplanted to red currants. The bush began to fatten, spread out a meter in a circle, the stem is thick, powerful. And suddenly it bloomed! The flowers are tiny, I counted them on my fingers. I was afraid that she would lose the color, but she waited for a dozen berries - small, nondescript, tasted like gooseberries. I left it for one more year, in the spring I will do a pruning.
I decided to myself: it is better to have separate gooseberry and currant bushes. I may be wrong, but, dear gardeners, do not waste your time. However, if someone yoshta gives an excellent harvest, share your experience. I can send cuttings in spring.
Yoshta bushes are 4-5 years old, they grow in a sunny place, they look great, the height is up to 1 m. Currant and gooseberry bushes grow nearby. But yoshta does not bloom and, accordingly, does not bear fruit at all. What to do?
Yoshta is an artificial species of berry plants that was created by crossing black currants and gooseberries. According to agrotechnical requirements, the technology of growing this hybrid is not much different from the cultivation of black currant.
Yoshta begins to bloom and bear fruit already in the 2-3rd year of growth. If your plant does not bloom after 4 years, it means that you have acquired some other type of ornamental shrub or a sterile plant form. In both cases, keeping these bushes in your garden and expecting high yields from them is already useless.
Several years ago, yoshta saplings were sold in Samara. Well, how can I lag behind - I also bought two seedlings. The husband seated three more. And five simply gorgeous bushes grew, but ... there was no harvest.
My husband still removed three bushes, but I defended two bushes - it's a pity. And then I read somewhere how a woman (also from Samara) bought yoshta and, without waiting for the harvest, threw it away. Another summer resident described how she fertilizes a bush. But I'm not fond of chemistry on the site, but I took one piece of advice into service: you need to put dried potato peelings under the bushes. I also began to dry the cleaning, dried it as much as I could, it was already the end of winter. In the spring, I laid them out in trunks and dug them in. And what? In summer, large berries appeared on the branches. True, not
on all branches. I called my neighbor, who also threw out her bushes without waiting for the harvest. I showed her branches with berries, she was very surprised.
Now I have been drying potato peelings all winter. By the way, I fertilize not only yoshta with them, but also gooseberries and red currants.
Duet of currants and gooseberries
Not so long ago, I began to grow yoshta - a culture bred by crossing currants and gooseberries. Unlike “ma we” -currants, yoshta has larger berries, and unlike “daddy” -gooseberries, there are no thorns. At the same time, the fruits of yoshta are no less useful than those of the “parents”. I plant the plants in open places, adding during digging 100 g of superphosphate, 80-90 g of potassium sulfate. 350 g of lime and 8-9 kg of organic matter (per 1 sq. M). By the way, subsequently I annually bring in 1 sq. m 5 kg of organic matter. 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. Landing holes are made with a depth of 40-45 cm and a diameter of 50-60. Each hoard contains 6-7 kg of compost, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 150 g of superphosphate. I mulch the planted bushes abundantly with humus. I plant currants and gooseberries next to the yoshta. This ensures better pollination and therefore a higher yield.
I've been trying to get a yoshta for six years now. I bought it twice at a horticultural fair, but everything was unsuccessful. The first time the usual red currant grew, and the second time - the gooseberry. I read that this is a hybrid of black currant with gooseberries. There should be a black berry and a bush without thorns. By correspondence on the Internet, I received a parcel with several cuttings. I planted them in the garden in the best place, but tall bushes grew: it turned out to be a thorny rose hip. There are always a lot of small berries. Ripe berries taste like Isabella grapes. I don't think I was deceived, because the one who sent me the package did not take money from me. Probably, he himself does not know exactly what kind of culture he grows, but was sure that it was yoshta.
About 10 years ago, an old friend came to my dacha, but not with empty hands, but with a gift - with a seedling that looked like a gooseberry, but without thorns.
A friend said that this is yoshta - a hybrid of gooseberries and black currants. When the first berries appeared, they turned out to be the size of a cherry, a shape similar to a currant, and a taste like a gooseberry. The beauty of the plant is that it does not prick - it does not have thorns. The shoots grew at such a speed that in the second year they grew up to 1.5 m!
The plant brings 7-8 kg of berries annually, although the yield can be up to 10 kg per bush.
In addition to this hybrid, I grow several varieties of regular gooseberries, each of which is good in its own way. Variety Defender is frost-resistant and fruitful. Grushenka also has a high yield. Moreover, even overripe fruits do not crumble for a long time. Green Rain has few thorns, it is resistant to anthracnose and spheroteca,
summer residents have long been arguing about the merits of yoshta, and I have a feeling that her opponents are winning. And all because gardeners do not know where and next to whom to plant this plant. So I want to share some thoughts on this score.
After all, what is yoshta? That's right - this is a hybrid of black currant and gooseberry, and therefore it is next to it that these plants will grow excellently. On my plot, gooseberries and currants are planted on the right and left hand of the yoshta, and the yield of these bushes is much higher than that of those that live on their own. There are so many fruits that the branches have to be propped up.
True, I made one mistake: I planted them too close to the yoshta, but
it grows great over time (by the way, it begins to bear fruit already in the second year of life). So now we have to cut its branches, losing part of the harvest. In general, I sacrifice it for the sake of its own relatives. What to do, because two are not waiting for one.
But, in general, the berries that I remove from the yoshta are enough for me. Basically, I freeze them, because, unlike gooseberries and currants, they perfectly tolerate subsequent defrosting: they do not lose their taste and do not become sour.
they are. Each summer resident himself can choose whether or not to plant this hybrid, it all depends on the size of your plot, but if there is enough land, then such a berry will not bother you on your table.
I dug my yoshta in a nearby birch grove. The bush bloomed very beautifully, and I thought it was some kind of wild ornamental plant that can be planted along the fence. And so she did.
And a couple of years later on the market I saw how nursery workers were selling exactly the same bushes, and even at 250 rubles apiece. It was then that I found out, and what the plant is called, and how expensive it is. I will not hide, I was glad.
Now my forest "homeless girl" has grown, has become a real beauty and began to bear fruit. Due to the fact that the fruits ripen at different times, the branches are simultaneously decorated with yellow, red and black berries. Wonders!
And besides, yoshta is completely unpretentious. I hardly care for her: I don't water, I don't feed, well, if I only cut dry and old shoots. The bush grows by itself, and my whole family relishes on berries the whole summer - we eat fresh, make jam, compotes, make liqueurs.
Joshta loves unshaded open areas. It gives the highest yields on soils rich in organic matter. Land for planting is prepared in the same way as for currants, but it must be remembered that yoshta has a high need for potassium.
And the very word "yoshta" is not at all stupid, but very affectionate.
After we acquired a land plot a year ago, I studied a bunch of literature for summer residents. A book about yoshta also fell into my hands. So, it was clearly stated there that this berry shrub is a hybrid obtained by crossing black currants and gooseberries. His bushes are powerful, spreading, without (attention!) Thorns. And yoshta-wusterberry M.M. Gimaeva, on the contrary, has formidable needles.
I think the respected author is mistaken when "crossing" these shrubs (although, of course, it was very interesting to learn about a new, at least for me, plant).
My sister is growing a real yoshta in Novorossiysk, which fully corresponds to all the descriptions. True, for a long time she sincerely believed that she had such a strange black currant. She had to open her eyes to who she was caring for. What do I suggest? Dear comrades, before sharing any of your discoveries, it would be nice to check yourself with the help of special literature.
Ioshta. What a curiosity! I am looking for all my acquaintances (irrepressible curiosity is the disease of all summer residents who are not indifferent to their garden), no one has, although everyone has heard about her, and everything is different. Okay. I started digging in books - I found some African. According to the description, I came to the conclusion that this is the same thing: a cross between gooseberries and black currants. When I read this, it seemed that somewhere I saw this plant alive. This plant has been sitting in my dacha for 24 years! And from my friend, from whom I took his twig, it has been the same for 40 years. So what kind of curiosity is this ?!
And now the main thing is why I decided to write. I managed to find out that the native name of this plant is not yoshta (some stupid
word), and not African (this name is more suitable for black gooseberries), but Worcesterberry. Indeed, the same hybrid of gooseberries and black currants, the width under the weight of the berries is slightly less than the height, and that, in turn, reaches 2 or more meters. The yield is very high. From the bush, I take 9-10 kg of berries and even leave the birds. I plant the Worcesterberry in the holes at a distance of 3 m from each other, although during the ripening of the fruits, the bushes still merge. Most importantly, this plant is resistant to all diseases.
The berries taste sweet, with a slight pleasant sourness. I cook from them all the same as from the fruits of all types of gooseberries. But I especially like to pass the berries through a meat grinder, then adding sugar there to taste and an orange with peel ground in the same way.
Cut branches take root for a very long time - about 1.5-2 years. Worcesterberry is not very fond of transplants, so you need to think carefully about where to shelter him in advance. Like currants, it is not friendly with raspberries, although the roots are very powerful. To uproot it is a quiet horror. The thorns of the Worcesterberry are formidable, so I don't let small ones near the bush. When picking berries, I put on glasses with "sides" and clothes with long sleeves. I start picking the fruits from the bottom row. Then I move the plucked branch aside, fix it with a peg and start the next one. And so in a circle.
I want to share my enthusiasm for the wonderful berry plant, which completely replaced black currant on my site (it is susceptible to viral diseases in our region). Since 2008, we have been growing yoshta - a hybrid of black currant and gooseberry. Leaves like gooseberry, but without thorns at all. Black berry, larger than currant, with an original flavor. My grandchildren love it very much fresh, because it does not have the acidity inherent in black currant.
The bush is up to 1.5-1.8 m in height and width, for mutual cross-pollination it is better to plant near the gooseberry - the berries will be larger. Yoshta is practically none
what does not get sick and is not affected by pests. Caring for her is the same as for gooseberries and black currants, but I have my own secret: in early spring I spray the bushes with milk whey diluted with warm water (1: 5) straight from the watering can. It is desirable that the rain does not wash it off within 5-7 days (if this happens, I repeat the treatment).
I feed it before flowering and at the beginning of the formation of berries (somewhere in 10-12 days after the first feeding) with weed "syrup", where I must add nettle and 200 g of baker's pressed yeast per 200-liter barrel. Everything is ready for feeding in 10-15 days, depending on the weather. Mulching the ground
under the bush with compost at the rate of 1-2 buckets under the bush, on top of it I must put the crushed beet plants left over from thinning, and subsequently - the crushed beet tops from the root crops used for food. With this mulching under the bushes, a real “sanatorium-nursery” is created for earthworms, which, in gratitude for taking care of them, process this mulch into food readily available for plants.
I bought a yoshta sapling by accident. One acquaintance offered it inexpensively, promising big harvests, so I got coveted. For three years I have not seen anything good from Yoshta. The bush grew up to 2 m high, and there weren't any berries. She stood like a kind of fluffy cloud without a crop and thought, probably, what a careless mistress I am that I cannot tame her. And I was angry: the dilda grew up stupid, she only drinks and eats. And in the third year in the fall, I decided to punish her.
D I cut the bush so that only the trunk and three large branches remained. And so she went into the winter.
And what do you think? In the spring, flowers bloomed on it, but large ones, and so often they sat that it seemed that Yoshta was happy: the hostess finally figured out how to handle the tree. The berry has grown large, juicy and abundant. After that, I fertilized it with a solution of bird droppings (1 liter per 10 liters of water), cow humus and herbal infusions. For the production of the latter, I use green manure, nettle, quinoa and kitchen waste. I insist for 2-3 weeks in a closed 200-liter barrel, then I dilute 1 liter of this wash with 10 liters of water.
And I have no more problems with Yoshta, we live in perfect harmony. And we are very happy with each other!
Nothing is said here about peach pruning. If you know, then please give an article on this issue. What is the pencil cropping method? Thanks in advance.
The best varieties of gooseberries: photo and description
Gooseberries, like most fruit and berry bushes, are deservedly popular with Russian gardeners. And even despite the prickly branches inherent in most species, these shrubs do not lose their attractiveness for gardeners. Learn about the best gooseberry varieties for central Russia and see their characteristics.
The aroma and sweet taste of the berries confirms the name of this gooseberry variety. Plants of this variety tolerate drought well, so the hot summer will not ruin the harvest. The purpose of the variety is universal: it can be used for jam, compotes, as well as fresh.
The spine of the shoots is average, the leaves are small. Gooseberry fruit peel Candy medium density. Suitable for growing in the West Siberian and East Siberian regions.